Hydroxy Acids Explained

Hydroxy acids are one of the best of the skin renewal approaches. They are naturally occurring, non-toxic substances found in the  human body, fruits, wine, milk and sugarcane, to name a few sources. Scientifically, these chemicals are known as alpha keto/carboxylic acids or beta keto/carboxylic acids. They are more commonly known as alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs and betahydroxy acids, or BHAs. The AHAs and BHAs help retain moisture in very dry skin, as well as helping reduce fine lines and uneven color of sun-damaged skin. They often lighten "age" spots.

 Part of their effect is decreasing the "glue" that holds dead cells on the surface of the skin.  This helps the dead cells to slough off (desquamation), speeds skin turnover, and brings to the surface a layer of smoother, softer skin.

 Of the AHAs, glycolic acid, which comes from sugarcane, is generally regarded as the best for skin renewal. Mixtures of several different AHAs have no advantage. Glycolic acid speeds the turnover of the skin cells resulting in a smoother texture and healthier appearance. It usually takes about four weeks of regular use to see a significant improvement in the skin. Glycolic acid can be combined with other bleaching agents that are used in the treatment of dark spots on skin.

Types of AHAs and BHAs
Research of Eugene J. Van Scott M.D. and R. J. Yu Ph.D. opened the modern era of AHA use. In 1976 they reported that glycolic acid, in specially designed formulations, helped in the treating of a scaling skin disease (ichthyosis).

Further studies by them indicated a use for hydroxy acids in skin renewal - however, their work was ignored by the skin care industry until the 1990s when alpha and beta hydroxy acids began to be incorporated into skin care products (Van Scott and Yu 1989). Later, Stiller et al conducted large-scale, placebo-controlled studies with AHAs and found they reversed premature aging caused by sun exposure. (Stiller et al 1996)  Their use was soon extended to chemical peels. (Dial 1990)

Skin improvements should be apparent after four weeks of AHA treatment, but AHA therapy also helps maintain skin health and is normally continued indefinitely.

Chemical peels with stronger AHA's (40-70%) speed the process.

AHAs are used for a variety of purposes: to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, to unblock and cleanse pores, to improve oily skin or acne, and to improve skin condition in general. In reality, they do increase the turnover of skin cells and enhance the rebuilding of collagen and elastin plus improve the internal moisture-holding properties of GAGs and proteoglycans. With long term use, AHAs alleviate fine to moderate wrinkles, and remove many skin lesions such as weathered skin, freckling, blotchy pigmentation, sun damage, age spots, mild acne scars, benign vergrowths of skin, and flat warts. They appear to work by causing an increased skin peeling of the lesion plus an irritation around the lesion. In time the lesion becomes smaller and is replaced by normal healthy skin.

Hydroxy acids are helpful in treating oily and acne-prone skin. Persons with these conditions often see dramatic results. Blackheads, white heads and acne breakouts are caused when the hair follicles clog and trap sebum in the follicle. Removing the upper layer of skin promotes natural sebum flow to the skin.

At the Eden clinic, we mainly use glycolic acid preparations, often in combination with laser treatments and topical retinoids, in order to achieve optimal results.

Some patients are unsuitable for alpha hydroxy acids; in such cases we can offer alternative preparations such as polyhydroxy acids.